This one-off expedition provides an unparallelled opportunity to explore the spectacular mountain ranges shared between Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Exploratory in nature, there is a degree of flexibility in the itinerary so we can take advantage of opportunities that present themselves along the way. You are accompanied by leaders with many years experience in this little-known and remote region, ensuring that this is truly a unique opportunity for the well-travelled adventurer.
Incorporating some of the most spectacular mountain passes and ancient cities of the Silk Road, our journey takes us through culturally rich and ethnically diverse areas that rarely see foreign travellers and have little tourist infrastructure. We drive from cosmopolitan Tashkent to Dushanbe - a national capital more on the scale of a rural centre - before several days of travel skirting Afghanistan's northern border. Far above the river valleys the road winds with kilometre after kilometre of stunning mountain landscape broken by tiny villages that seem to be cast back in time. We journey to the remote Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) of Tajikistan, a region better known for the colourful 'Great Game' events that took place here in the late 19th century. Traversing the full length of the Pamir Highway from Khorog to Osh, our route incorporates rugged roads and stark yet beautiful high-altitude desert plateaux, each day revealing a new and more beautiful aspect to little-known Tajikistan. Finally we cross one of the world's most remote and desolate borders into Kyrgyzstan, overnighting in yurts at the very crossroads of the Silk Road at Sary Tash, a caravanserai that has served weary travellers for many centuries. Combining breathtaking landscapes with glimpses of a centuries-old way of life, this expedition will amply reward the traveller who is willing to venture to what locals call 'Bom-i-Dunyo' - the Roof of the World
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive Tashkent
- On arrival in Tashkent you will be met by one of our representatives once you’ve passed through immigration & transferred to your hotel.
- In the evening you meet your tour leader and the other group members for a pre-tour briefing. This is generally followed by an optional group dinner at a local restaurant.
Uzbekistan Hotel or similar
Day 2 - Tashkent
- Today our focus is on completing the paperwork for Tajikistan - patience is required as we obtain the necessary group visa and additional permits for the Pamir region. Please ensure you have your visa fee ready in US dollars cash, and that the notes are clean and recently issued (post 2005).
- Our group may be required to present ourselves at the embassy or it may be possible for the paperwork to be completed without our presence - your tour leader will advise you at the pre-departure meeting.
- If there is time, we can explore this charming city with a tour that includes the Museum of History, Amir Timur Square, Barak Khan Medressa, Kukeldash Medressa and the Chorsu Bazaar.
Uzbekistan Hotel or similar
Breakfast
Day 3 - Tashkent to Istaravshan
- Today we truly begin our adventure as we drive from the Uzbek capital, crossing the border and continuing on to the Tajik town of Khojand.
- At the border we swap from our more conventional vehicles to four wheel drives as immediately we see a contrast between the smooth surfaces of the Uzbek roads and their more rugged equivalents.
- We also meet our Tajik guides and drivers here, with the group split into smaller vehicles for the journey ahead. We will need to negotiate narrow roads and unpredictable conditions, but we are in good hands with experienced local drivers who know the terrain intimately.
- Khojand is a further 55 kilometres from the border, the second largest city in the country and capital of Soghd Province.
- Our sightseeing here will include the local museum and the ancient citadel that dates from the 10th century and which fell to the Mongol invaders who swept through this region in the 13th century.
- We continue the 85kms to Istaravshan, with its hilltop citadel guarding the beautifully preserved town. We have time to visit the bazaar, which amongst the region's largest and a good place to look for handicrafts as souvenirs (our shopping options will become more limited later so if something catches your eye it is best to buy it at the time!).
- Exploring the old town we visit the blue-domed mosque and medressa complex of Kok-Gumbaz, dating back to the 15th century.
- Unlike many towns, Istaravshan retains a more traditional, if maze-like, layout of streets and as we explore we may well experience some Tadjik hospitality - it is common to be invited into private homes for tea and we should seize any such opportunities to visit and see the ornate decoration inside.
Guesthouse
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 4-5 - Istaravshan to Dushanbe
- Our destination today is the Tajik capital of Dushanbe, 245km away.
- We have a tough drive ahead of us as we must cross two high passes - the Shakhristan Pass (3378 metres) and the Anzob Pass (3372 metres).
- We have an opportunity to break our journey with a stop at the ancient ruins of Penjikent, a 5th century Sogdian settlement that was abandoned just a few hundred years later. Unusually, the site of the ancient city was never built upon, so the ruins remain accessible, with Zoroastrian temples as well as the outline of the central bazaar still visible.
- Arriving in Dushanbe we take a short rest at our comfortable hotel before heading out for an evening stroll.
- 'Dushanbe' means Monday in Tajik, with the town named for the small weekly bazaar which was once all the town had to recommend it. Now it is a pleasant, if small, capital, with broad tree-lined avenues and pleasing architecture surrounded by mountain scenery.
- Whilst here we take the opportunity to pick up any supplies we will need before we reach our next major city - Osh - in ten days time.
basic hotel
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 6-7 - Dushanbe
- A busy day of sightseeing awaits us as we drive 30 kilometres to the remains of 18th century Hissor Fort and its two medressas before an afternoon exploring Dushanbe itself.
- The history of Hissor fort is colourful, with the fortress the stronghold of local basmachi forces (local freedom fighters, what we would call mujaheddin today). Through the 1920s a power struggle was played out in the region between Bolshevik forces and Pan-Turkic would-be occupiers under the Ottoman Enver Pasha.
- Back in Dushanbe, we visit the bazaar and the excellent Museum of National Antiquities. This relatively new museum reflects Tajikistan's diverse pre-Islamic cultural heritage, with exhibits from Bactrian, Buddhist, Zoroastrian and Hindu eras of influence.
- For our local team, today is also a day of preparation as we organise the vehicles and supplies necessary for our trip into the Pamirs and the Wakhan region of the country.
- Our drivers come from Murghab and a trip to Dushanbe provides a welcome opportunity to pick up spare parts and treats for their families, as well as to catch up on the latest gossip and news.
basic hotel
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 8 - Dushanbe to Kala-i Khum
- We set off east towards the Pamirs, with some 350kms to cover before we reach our destination of Kala-i Khum.
- Although we have another long day on the road, we are quickly distracted by the beautiful scenery and interesting villages en route.
- This area is a little more conservative, and we see many men with beards, and women wearing traditional dress.
- More arrestingly, along the road we also see relics of Tajikistan's bitter civil war of 1992-96, as tanks and armored vehicles lie decaying wherever they were left.
- We cross the Khaburabot Pass (3252 metres), arriving in Kala-i Khum in the early evening.
Guesthouse
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 9-10 - Kala-i Khum to Khorog
- From Kala-i Khum we leave for Khorog with some 250kms of terrain ahead of us, and the promise of some spectacular scenery along the way.
- The road joins the Panj River, which forms the border with Afghanistan. The contrast across the river valley is telling, Tajikistan is undoubtedly a poor country, but in general the roads are sealed and buildings are connected with electricity. The situation barely 100m away is even starker, and it is as if the river represents not just a physical divide, but also a step back in time.
- We stay in relative luxury tonight, having reached the capital of the Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) - this is a restricted part of the country and we have obtained permits to travel here. Nevertheless, be prepared for the possibility of some additional paperwork!
- We have a little time to explore Khorog including the bazaar and the lovely botanical gardens which are perched high above the town, affording some great panoramic views.
basic hotel
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 11 - Khorog to Ishkashim
- About 50kms along the road to our next destination, Ishkashim, we will stop at Garmchashma Hot Springs for an (optional) dip in the natural springs.
- From here, we enter the Tajik half of the Wakhan Valley (shared with Afghanistan) and have a further 100kms to cover.
- We pass regional gem mines mentioned by Marco Polo in his descriptions of what he called the 'Mt Shugnon region'. The most famous mine is Koh-i-Lal ruby mine which is visible from the road.
- Ishkashim itself may be the regional centre, but it is essentially still a large village and we stay in a traditional style guesthouse here.
Guesthouse
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 12 - Ishkashim to Langar
- There is little to see or do in Ishkashim itself, so we detour to the nearby village of Namadguti to visit the Khahkha Fortress.
- This impressive structure rises from a naturally formed platform of rock and dates back to the Kushan era of the 3rd century. Please note that the fort is sometimes still used by local Tajik military forces so the excursion will be dependent on permission from the local authorities. If we are able to visit whilst the military are in place, please be extremely careful about taking photographs only with permission.
- There are a number of these ancient fortresses in the area, and we also visit Yamchun fort, perhaps the most impressive of them all.
- We take a break at the Bibi Fatima hot springs, named for the Prophet Mohammed's sister and where local women believe they can increase their fertility.
- Men and women will have separate bathing times, however facilities are basic.
- Continuing our sightseeing today, we then stop at the 4th century Buddhist stupas at Vrang, reminders of the ancient pilgrim caravans that passed through the region. There are traces of this Buddhist history to be found throughout Central Asia, despite the dominance of Islam in recent centuries.
Homestay
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 13-15 - Langar to Murghab
- Today we get a chance to explore the amazing landscape of this area.
- We cross a second high-altitude pass, Naziatash Pass (4137 metres). leaving behind the lush valleys of the Wakhan Valley and enter a landscape that is rocky, mostly barren but nevertheless dramatic.
- This is the Pamir Highway we have anticipated, with the route between Khorog and Osh completed in 1931 across a Tibetan-plateau style high altitude terrain.
- We have a total of 240kms to cover today, and we anticipate arriving in Murghab early evening.
- Murghab itself has few attractions, but it will serve as our base for a couple of nights as we explore the area a little.
- Our schedule for tomorrow includes an excursion to see petroglyphs at Ak-Jilga, the old mining town of Dara and the bazaar in Murghab itself.
- It is also the base of our local partners, the Murghab Ecotourism Association, and we will have an opportunity to learn about local efforts to promote sustainable tourism in this remote but beautiful country.
Homestay
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 16 - Murghab to Sary Tash
- We embark on the final leg of our Tajik journey today.
- Our destination is Sary Tash (Kyrgyzstan), some 300kms away.
- This drive will see us enjoying some of the most dramatic scenery of the tour, with the lunar-like landscapes and bright blue lakes making the trip a breathtaking experience.
- We will again cross several high-altitude passes, including Ak-Baital Pass (4655 metres) which is the highest section of road in the former Soviet Union.
- We descend to Karakul Lake, the highest lake in Central Asia, and at 3915 metres, too high to support any aquatic life.
- Our final Pamir Highway high pass is the Kyzyl Art Pass (4282 metres), which essentially forms the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.
- Border formalities take place shortly after crossing the pass, with 20kms of 'no man's land' to cross. Be warned, even in August we could see sub-zero temperatures through the border areas, so make sure you have some extra layers to hand in case we are delayed by formalities.
- Having crossed to Kyrgyzstan, we will keep our drivers and guide - although we are in a different country, the ethnic lines in this region are greatly blurred, and Russian, Tajik, Kyrygz and Uzbek are all spoken with interchangeable ease!
- Tonight we will stay in yurts (traditional Central Asian felt tents) at Sary Tash.
Yurt or similar
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Day 17 - Sary Tash to Osh
- We depart the high mountains of the Pamir-Altay range, leaving behind us the crossroads of Tadjikistan, Kyrgyzstan and China.
- The drive offers a contrast as we encounter lush farmlands and small villages on this side of the mountains, instead of the stark high-altitude plateau we recently crossed in Tajikistan.
- En route we will cross the Tol Dek Pass (3554m) and enjoy some beautiful views - if we're lucky we may even catch a glimpse of Peak Lenin - at 7134m - the second highest mountain in Central Asia.
- We must travel about 170km today, and depending on road conditions and travel times we expect to arrive in Osh, Kyrgyzstan's oldest city in the afternoon.
- Our second night in Kyrgyzstan is spent at a small guesthouse, and we have free time to explore this sleepy town or simply relax.
Guesthouse
Breakfast | Lunch
Day 18 - Osh to Fergana
- We spend the morning in Osh, a small city that boasts 3000 years of history, with purported links to the empires of Suleiman the Magnificent, Alexander the Great and the Mongol Hordes.
- We visit Suleiman's Mountain, a site of huge Islamic importance.
- We are now in an areas known as the Fergana Valley, a fertile bowl fringed by the Tian Shan mountains to the north and the Pamir Altay mountains to the south.
- The valley area spreads across the border with Uzbekistan, and cross-border cultural and ethnic ties remain strong for the people of this region.
- In the afternoon we farewell our Tajik friends and cross the border into Uzbekistan.
- Our first Uzbek excursion takes us to Andijian, birthplace of Zahiruddin Babur - a 15th century ruler who boasted ancestry from the lines of both Timur the Great and Genghis Khan. Here we visit Babur's Memorial and learn about his legacy in Afghanistan and India - his descendants were the founders of the Mughal empire.
- We continue on to spend the night in Fergana - this is a small and sleepy city, and we enjoy a relaxing evening here, perhaps settling into a local chaikhana (teahouse) to watch the world go by.
Hotel Club 777 or Hotel Asia
Breakfast | Lunch
Day 19 - Fergana Valley
- Today we enjoy a more relaxed pace as we move between the artisan towns of Fergana, Margilan and Rishton.
- In Margilan we start our day with a stroll through the bazaar, before continuing to a silk production centre - one of the few to still retain traditional methods. Here we can see the many processes used to turn the raw silk cocoons into beautiful silk cloth and exquisite tapestries, carpets and embroideries. For many visitors a real highlight is learning how the traditional and distinctive Uzbek cloth ('khanatlas') is made.
- From Margilan we move to Rishton, and after lunch with a local family we visit a pottery centre to learn about the delicate ceramics for which the town is famous. A local master will show us how he crafts each piece by hand before carefully decorating and firing them in a traditional kiln.
- Be prepared for some shopping today - even the most seasoned travellers will find it hard to resist a purchase!
Hotel Club 777 or Hotel Asia
Breakfast
Day 20 - Fergana to Tashkent
- It's an early start today as we depart the Fergana Valley for Tashkent.
- Arriving in Kokand en route, we have time to explore the Khudayar Khan Palace, capital of the Kokand Khanate in the 18th and 19th centuries, and now home to a fascinating museum of local history.
- We also have time to visit several mosques and medressas before continuing our journey.
- As we cross the Kamchik Pass (2267m) and look back the way we have come, we gain a sense of the geography of the region - and begin to understand why the Fergana Valley has always regarded itself as a little cut-off from the rest of the country.
Uzbekistan Hotel or similar
Breakfast
Day 21 - End in Tashkent
- Our epic trip through Central Asia’s heartland ends this morning in Tashkent.
