Flavours of the Dordogne

An enticing mixture of charming villages, meandering rivers, fascinating prehistoric sites and sumptuous cuisine

West of the Massif Central lies Perigord, a region of lush valleys dotted with harmonious towns and quaint villages. The Dordogne and Vezere Rivers wind through this tranquil landscape irrigating beautiful vineyards and old forests that have produced fine wines and black truffles for centuries. For those interested in archaeology, it is one of Europe’s most fascinating regions, having been continuously inhabited by man for tens of thousands of years. The lovely riverside villages such as La Roque Gageac, St Leon sur Vezere and Domme are a highlight of any visit to the region, with wonderful cobblestoned laneways, imposing castles and dramatic views. Perigord is also known for its fine food and wine; local dishes such as succulent duck, wild boar and Fois Gras are specialties of the region. Our hotels on this week of exploration have been specially chosen for their character and friendly ambiance and make a perfect relaxing base for us to reconvene in the evenings and reminisce about our days discoveries.

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Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1: Les Eyzies

Meals included: 1 dinner

Welcome to the heart of the Dordogne region, known to the French as Périgord, and the village of Les Eyzies (pop: 900). Les Eyzies lies at the heart of an unspoilt area of great natural beauty with rolling hills, tranquil rivers and fascinating cliff and rock formations. An extended stay here in the incredibly scenic Périgord Noir (Black Périgord) region before your trip commences is an excellent idea. Les Eyzies is best reached via the provincial centre of Perigueux, approximately 100 kilometres north-east of the city of Bordeaux. There are daily direct fast trains from Paris Gare d'Austerlitz station (4-5 hours) and Bordeaux (1 hour) to Perigueux among other routes. Here you change for a direct regional service to Les Eyzies (30 minutes). We recommend that you consult www.sncf.com for exact train departure times regardless of your routing. Whilst at your discretion, we recommend arriving and departing by train where possible within Europe due to this method of transport's minimal carbon emissions. Arriving at Les Ezyies Railway Station is magical in itself – it is a delightfully historic railway station that is located only 600 metres from our hotel. The full name of the town is Les Eyzies-de-Tayac and it nestles against the cliffs and oak forests on the bank of the meandering Vézère River. Following the discovery in the 19th century of the remarkable remnants of prehistoric human occupation, the village has come to be known as a centre for archaeological excavations. A trip to see the many fascinating artefacts at the National Museum of Prehistory is highly recommended. In the evening we meet our tour leader and fellow travelling companions at a Welcome Meeting (this is at 7pm at the reception of our hotel), where we are given a briefing of what lies ahead on our tour. This is followed by an included 'Welcome Dinner' – a great chance to get to know our fellow travellers. Santé!

Day 2: Les Eyzies – La Grotte du Sorcier – Les Eyzies

Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 lunch

After breakfast we leave the bustling town of Les Eyzies, where a local market is held every Monday morning. We stroll along the Vézére River, an ochre coloured waterway that flows and snakes its way beneath rolling hills in woods covered with oaks and chestnut trees, to a ‘wizard’s cave’! Do you remember the tale of Hansel and Gretel? They were children who were lost in the woods and then attracted by the barley sugar windows and the gingerbread roof of a witch’s house? Well, this is it! Without doubt we will be irresistibly seduced by this troglodyte cliff-side house and the cave that is perched over the small village of Saint-Cirq in Dordogne, only a few miles from the village of Le Bugue. Hidden among bamboos and banana tree plantations, we enter another dimension - that of Saint-Cirq’s Wizard’s Cave that dates back 15,000 years. After exploring this very interesting little cave and learning about the history of the area, it’s time to share our first picnic! Local goat cheese and the world’s sweetest strawberries will give you more energy for the walk back to Les Eyzies. (5 hours walking, +300m cumulative gain)

Day 3: Les Eyzies – Commarque - Bardenat

Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner

After breakfast we leave Les Eyzies and walk up the small scenic valley of Beune, which was carved out over thousands of years by the meandering river that shares it name, and gaze upon the mysterious landscapes as we wander. We then walk up along the hilltops that seem almost like lofty balconies, nestled in wooded hills and festooned by orchids. We then come across some typically beautiful Périgord farms, where ducks and geese are bred for local culinary specialties. We then arrive at the grand Château of Commarque, which was founded during the 12th century on the request of the abbots of Sarlat. Originally the Château de Commarque was only a wooden tower that helped protect the valley from the constant threat from the rival barons of Beynac. It is located at a strategic nexus of two important commercial roads - the road from Périgueux to Cahors and the road from Brive-la-Gaillarde to Bergerac. The castle was constantly further fortified over the centuries and changed hands many times in the maelstrom of wars across the ages, such as the French wars of religion and the Hundred Years' War when it was occupied by the English. We take time to enjoy our fresh picnic lunch in bucolic and picturesque surroundings en route to our fabulous 'feature Stay' night stop in Bardenat. Our hotel in Bardenat is a truly charming inn located in the heart of Périgord. Local cuisine featuring produces from the farms awaits us at tonight’s dinner, as well as a well-deserved swim in the garden's swimming pool after the day's walk. (6 hours walking, +600 cumulative gain – a longer walk)

Day 4: St-Leon-sur-Vezere - La Roque Gageac

Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 dinner

After breakfast we bid 'au revoir' to our hosts and wander off through hills and forest and rejoin the tranquil banks of the Vézère River. We now walk by the ghostly prehistoric shelters of Castermerle and Conquill that are hewn from sheer rock. Opposite these ancient relics is postcard-perfect Saint-Leon, a quiet and picturesque village located on a scenic bend in the river. Once a river-port this tiny township (pop. 441) is a vestige to medieval times and truly an undiscovered ‘gem’. There is time for to enjoy lunch by the river at a small café whose owner (a wonderful character) assembles flavoursome salads from the freshest of produce, all with a smile and a whistle. We complete today at the La Roque Saint-Christophe (St Christopher's Rock), set high above the waters of the Vézère River. This site (the biggest cave-dwelling habitation in Europe) consists of about one hundred caves on five levels hollowed out on the limestone cliffs and is believed to have housed up to 1000 people. Walking up and down the stairs and passageways you discover early traces of occupation that go back over 50,000 years before it became a veritable fortress during the medieval times. A late afternoon transfer takes us to our new base in the countryside outside of Beynac, which is known as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Its magnificent castle is protected by the sheer drop on the side facing the Dordogne River and its northern defences were reinforced around 1598 when a double wall, two rows of moats and two barbicans (a type of fortified gateway) were constructed. From this panoramic location we enjoy breathtaking views over the whole of the valley and the surrounding châteaux. Just below is the village itself, stretching along the banks of the calm river. Inhabited as early as 2000 BC, it had lived off the traffic from the river during the Middle Ages. The traditional ‘gabares’ (boats) have today given way to canoes and rowing boats, set against the picture-postcard backdrop of the fortified castle. We enjoy another 'feature stay' for our next two nights with an inviting swimming pool to cool off after our rewarding walk and sumptuous regional fare for dinner. (5-6 hours walking, 500m cumulative gain)

Day 5: Domme - Beynac

Meals included: 1 breakfast

This morning we head into the heart of the Dordogne and begin with a guided and leisurely stroll around the ‘bastide’ town of Domme, We enjoy exploring the morning market of this medieval masterpiece of cobblestone streets, exquisite honey-coloured homes and compact gardens of creeping wisteria vines. 'Bastides' are fortified ‘new’ towns built in medieval Languedoc, Gascony and Aquitaine during the 13th and 14th centuries in an effort to colonise what was viewed then as wilderness region especially in southwest France. Almost seven hundred 'bastides' were built between 1222 and 1372. Of slightly more recent vintage, the ‘bastides’ of Domme and La Roque Gageac are now listed in the 'Plus Beaux Villages de France' (‘The Most Beautiful Villages in France’) - an official register of the 100 prettiest French villages. Within the walls of this 12th-century village, you can visit the caves where the villagers hid during the Hundred Years' War. On the Grand Rue, the town's shopping street, you can purchase some of the many exquisite handicrafts, wine and food specialties from the Périgord region. Our walk then descends through the village of Saint Julien-de-Cenac and takes us along the Dordogne River. This afternoon there is the opportunity to undertake the optional activity of canoeing on the Dordogne from Cenac to Beynac (12 km, about 2 ½ hours), drifting via La Roque Gageac and Castelnaud. Not only are you going to discover these beautiful places on foot, but this also gives you the chance to do it on water. Along the way you'll see the beautiful cliffs along the river before La Roque Gageac, the magnificent castle in Castelnaud which since the Middle Ages had overlooked the village. After the end of your descent at Castelnaud, the village of Beynac awaits. The canoe trip is an early taste of tomorrow's walk where you trek in the heart of the same villages! Tonight is spent back in Beynac. (2 hours walking, +300 cumulative gain; optional activity: 2 hours canoeing)

Day 6: Castelnaud - La Roque Gageac - Sarlat

Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 lunch

Today we walk from villages to castles. In the morning we amble through cornfields en route to Castelnaud, following the path alongside the wide slow-flowing Dordogne River. Perched on a hillside on the left bank of the Dordogne, Castelnaud overlooks the small borough coiled at its feet. This was a stronghold of the English during the Hundred Years' War and we have free time to enjoy the sweeping views from its dominating position up on the rocky outcrop. We then cross the Dordogne River before walking through a plain and reaching La Roque-Gageac. It is nestled next to the water at the foot of the impressive cliff where elegant houses, resplendent with banana, bamboo and palm trees in the gardens, are perched on the rock. La Roque-Gageac is considered one of the most beautiful villages in all of France. In the late afternoon we transfer to the pretty provincial town of Sarlat, capital of the Périgord Noir. (4 hours walking, +300 cumulative gain)

Day 7: Sarlat (Free Day – morning market and optional visit to Lascaux II)

Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 dinner

Today is a free day to explore Sarlat and its surroundings and your tour leader is on hand to offer suggestions of things to see and do. Once the capital of the Périgord region, Sarlat contains more medieval, Renaissance and 17th-century buildings than any other city in southern France, with its splendour found in its sandstone architecture. There is time to experience the town's open-air market—the largest and liveliest in all of the Dordogne—which offers a mind-boggling array of fruits, vegetables, truffles, meats, cheeses, crafts and trinkets. This afternoon you have the option of visiting the Lascaux II prehistoric caves. With picnic items bought this morning at the market, those wishing to join this optional trip will then be transferred to Lascaux II. Here we receive a private guided tour of Lascaux II - a stunningly accurate facsimile of the famous Lascaux Cave that contains some of the world's finest prehistoric paintings. Discovered in 1940, the original cave was open to the public for over 20 years until scientists determined that the carbon dioxide created by the constant stream of visitors (almost 1200 per day) was compromising the preservation of the paintings. The cave was officially closed for public viewing in 1963. To enable the public to still experience the these amazing caves, the Dordogne Department’s tourism authority created Lascaux II—a life-size reproduction that gives visitors a sense of the original cave's splendour. For those who wish to stay in medieval mode for the afternoon, why not stroll through Sarlat's historic centre and discover its labyrinth of vaulted passageways, hidden squares, streets lined with ochre stone houses, shops and cafés galore.

Day 8: Sarlat

Meals included: 1 breakfast

After breakfast and saying farewell to your new-found friends, you are transferred back to Sarlat Railway Station. If you intend on using this transfer service, please do not plan onward train travel before 10 am. If you need to leave earlier please discuss your requirements with your tour leader who may be able to make alternative arrangements for you, depending on the availability of vehicles (a surcharge will apply). The cities of Bordeaux, Bergerac and Perigueux are destinations close to Sarlat that offer convenient connections for onward travel. ‘Au revoir’ from the beautiful Dordogne!

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About Peregrine

Peregrine has been operating adventure holidays since 1977. Today we can help you discover all four corners of the globe, from the Polar regions, to Africa, Latin America, Asia, Europe, the Middle East and beyond. We offer high-quality, excellent-value, small-group adventures to interesting areas of the world, in harmony with the local people and the environment.

What's Included

Peregrine tour leader, transport and sightseeing.

Summary of accommodation, transport & meals

Transport

• On foot
• Private vehicle
• Trek

Accommodation

• 5 nights Comfortable hotel
• 2 nights Feature Stay

Meals

• 7 breakfasts
• 3 lunches
• 4 dinners

Not Included

International flights, arrival and departure transfers, departure taxes, visas, insurance, other meals, drinks, optional additional tours or activities during free time, tips and items of a personal nature.

Optional Extras

• Dodogne River - Canoeing
  approx €15 per person
• Visit to Lascaux II
  35 Euros per person

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Visas and Permits

France

Visas are currently not required for Australian, New Zealand, US, Canadian or UK/EU passport holders wishing to visit France.

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Important Information

Pre-departure document PDI
Please carefully read these trip notes in conjunction with the pre-departure document (PDI) which you will recieve upon confirmation of your holiday. This important document contains further information about your European trip that you will need to know before you travel.

About this Information

The information provided here is given in good faith and has been compiled with all reasonable care. However, things change and some of the information may become out of date. Please keep this in mind when you read it and check with us if you want to be sure about something. The document was correct at time of printing, but you can check online for the most up to date version.  If you have any queries, please contact your travel agent or our staff in Australia. We are here to help you!

Last Updated

3 November 2011

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