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Join Glenyce on the Camino - Logroño to Burgos (self-guided)

Join Glenyce on the Camino - Logroño to Burgos (self-guided)

Burgos

Logrono

Trip rating

  • Overview

    This famous walk covers the early stages of the holy pilgrim's walk in northern Spain. Passing lakes, woodlands, fields and historic sites, it showcases a kaleidoscope of the European countryside and offers experiences that can only be found off the beaten track.

    Itinerary

    Day 1 - Logroño

    • Your trip starts with your arrival in the town of Logroño, located on the Elbro River in the province of La Rioja, nearly 668 km from Santiago de Compostela.
    • There are a number of ways to reach Logroño. You can fly to Bilboa and catch a bus or train from there to Logroño. The bus company operating the Bilbao-Logroño route is UNIÓN ALAVESA-BURUNDESA. Schedule: www.autobuseslaunion.com/es/descarga-horarios . The train company is RENFE. Schedule: www.renfe.com
    • There are flights and trains from Barcelona and Madrid to Logroño.
    • There is no walking scheduled for today, so you can arrive at anytime; however, we recommend you arrive with ample time to collect your Pilgrim Passport (see the ‘Important Information’ section of your pre-departure document for more information on the Pilgrim Passport).

    Day 2 - Logroño ‐ Nájera (27 km/6-7 hours)

    • You leave Logroño along the Calle Marqués de Murrieta and Avenida de Burgos, then cutting through a long urban park via cement paths and paved tracks. Pass underneath the road and walking along a cement path to La Grajera Park and reservoir. Follow a trail not far from the water around the dike or reservoir wall, leading through pine and poplar trees. The road then runs parallel to the motorway through vineyards and almond trees.
    • You now access the A-road and follow it for a few metres, but please take great care because of the heavy traffic. Turn right again along a terraced trail that takes you to Navarrete, after crossing the motorway by aerial bridge. The ruins of the old hospital for pilgrims from San Juan de Arce are situated at the entrance to the village. Navarrete is known for its pottery, while notable monuments include the Church of La Asunción, which contains a beautiful Baroque altarpiece and a 16th century triptych in the sacristy that is attributed to Rembrandt. The remains of the wall and castle are a testimony to the numerous battles that took place here between the Navarrese and Castilians.
    • Leave Navarrete by road until you reach a cemetery full of tall cypresses and has a Romanesque entrance is from the old hospital of pilgrims of San Juan de Arce. One of the capitals depicts the battle between Roldan and Ferragut. Continue left along a terraced trail between vineyards and olive trees. You will pass the Vitivinícola de Sotes (winery) and continue parallel to the motorway. Again take a left down a rural road leading to Ventosa, a town made famous by its chorizo factories. As in all La Rioja, the wine is good, but the honey is even better. A parish church dedicated to San Saturnino is situated on a hill. From Ventosa, follow the local road to the Vallformosa Winery. The tarmac then becomes a dirt track again. The track now climbs up past the oaks and kermes oaks that are a reminder of La Rioja’s original forests before the land became vineyards and arable fields. This section is full of boulders that may hinder progress. On rainy days, these reddish clay roads can get muddy.
    • The road, although almost flat, is deceptive: from Logroño to the borders of Burgos province you will climb 380 metres to 800 metres. It is therefore a false flatland which will tire you out and may test some pilgrims’ patience.
    • A tumbledown and rather ugly farm is located on the Alto de San Antón (hill). The views from here are marvellous, looking out on to the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra de la Demanda in the background (in spring). Your destination is the town of Nájera. There is a giddy descent from the Alto de San Antón. Cross underneath the road and continue along a rural road running parallel to the first road, which will gradually move away from it. The tractors that work the vineyards will accompany you at your pace. Shortly before Nájera you have the chance to admire a magnificent example of a ‘guardaviñas’ or ‘chozo de pastor’ architecture. It is a shame that a nearby gravel pit breaks the bucolic charm of the area. From the gravel pit, you will now descend to the river, which you cross via a little bridge. Pass under the road and take a rest stop to regain your energy before entering Nájera.
    • Move on through gardens, past the workshops or garages and furniture factories from which the city of Rioja derives its wealth. Rioja was, in medieval times, capital of the kingdom of Navarre. Nájera’s roads enable you to get a feel for its character until you cross the Najerilla River. Walk through the old part of town until you come across the Santa María el Real, Royal Pantheon (housing the tombs of Navarrese kings, kings of Castile and Leon and the tomb of Sr. Diego López de Haro, the founder of Bilbao). The Gothic church has a magnificent 16th century choir and a very beautiful Plateresque cloister. In July the spectacular Crónicas Najerienses are celebrated here in this lovely group of buildings. Nájera is a good place to eat and rest thanks to its range of services.
    Breakfast | Dinner

    Day 3 - Nájera ‐ Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21 km/4-5 hours)

    • There is a 1 kilometre ascent to the top of the Alto de Nájera (hill) among pines, many of which were knocked down by the hurricane in January 2009. You will follow a trail that is sometimes terraced, sometimes paved. Go through Azofra via the Calle Mayor. This village comprises noble houses displaying old coats of arms. Although you are forced to deviate from the road here, it is well worth a visit to the monasteries in the municipality of San Millán de la Cogolla, a World Heritage site and cradle of the Spanish language with its ‘Glosas Emilianenses’ (Glosses of Saint Emilianus). The beautiful Cistercian Abbey of Canes (1170), home of Santo Domingo de Silos, is closer to Azofra.
    • Leaving the town by road you come across the Fuente de Los Romeros (Pilgrims’ Fountain), with refreshing water to satisfy your thirst. Turn left on to the local road, which turns into a rural road. Standing isolated among the vineyards, you will soon see the Rollo or Picota de Azofra (type of column for law enforcement), from which the heads of executed prisoners were once strung hung. The track again runs parallel to the road. After a long steep slope you arrive in Cirueña, where oak trees hundreds of years old stand out on the green golf course. After crossing through ugly urbanisations that spoil the landscape you will exit on to the road. Take another left along a terraced trail and after reaching the summit of the last steep slope, you will see Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the distance. A swift descent takes us to the cathedral bell tower (which is separate from the main building). This city is a ‘child of the Camino’, founded in 1044 by Santo Domingo. Next to the old National Parador is the cathedral, famous for its poultry coop – the permanent residence of a rooster and a white hen - to remind us of the miracle of the pilgrim who was hung. The Camino de Santiago now follows the Calle Mayor, which is lined with bars, restaurants and shops.
    Breakfast | Dinner

    Day 4 - Santo Domingo ‐ Belorado (22 km/4-5 hours)

    • Go along the Calle Mayor de Santo Domingo and reach the outskirts of the town. Turn left and you will approach a roundabout and the National Parador. The roundabout displays the sign to Burgos and you continue along this road. Cross the bridge and go past the hermitage, and continue along the Herremelluri road immediately on the right. After a few metres, take the trail on the left that crosses the A-road. You now continue parallel to the road, on the left side. After a further kilometre you turn sharply to the left and then to the right, among cereal fields, and climb up to Grañón. Shortly before Grañón you will see a cemetery on the left. The Ermita de los Judíos (hermitage) greets you as you enter the village. Continue to the right towards the Church of San Juan Bautista. Going up the street, you will leave the village via a fountain. Turn right at the fountain and then left along a terraced trail leading to the A-road. Take a left at the next fork and then a right at the fork after that. Cross a stream at the bottom of the valley and go straight on at the next crossing. There is now another crossing, this time a smooth ascent going left until you reach a sign announcing that you are leaving La Rioja and entering Castile and Leon.
    • Walking downhill to Redecilla del Camino where there is a pilgrimage information centre. Cross the A-road with great caution and stop at a little square with a fountain and the ‘rollo judicial’ (a column where law was enforced). Inside this village’s parish church is a striking 12th century Romanesque baptismal font. Cross through the village via streets that run parallel to the main road. Cross the A-road again to continue following the terraced trail running parallel to the road. Cross the river over a cement path which may be difficult if the river is high. Arrive in Castildelgado along the Calle El Cristo. Here the 16th century parish church is dedicated to San Pedro. Leave the village by track down to the road and continue parallel to it along a terraced trail.
    • The track becomes a local road a kilometre and a half outside Viloria, where the houses are made of adobe and stone. At the other end of the village is a cemetery. Descend swiftly down a local road to the A-road again. Croaking crows will keep you company in your solitude. Continue along the terraced trail running parallel to the A-road. Cross a local road leading to Fresneña and continue straight on. Enter Villamayor del Río via the Calle Real. Back out in the countryside follow the terraced trail, running parallel to the highway, that takes you 5 km to Belorado.
    • You arrive in Belorado after crossing another local road leading to Fresneña. After crossing the A-road you will enter the town via a dirt road, passing wood factories at the foot of the castle ruins. This road enables you to discover the neighbourhood of Corro (old Jewish quarter), see the Iglesia de Santa María and the Plaza Mayor, with its portico, where the church of San Pedro is situated.
    Breakfast | Dinner

    Day 5 - Belorado ‐ Atapuerca (29 km/6-7 hours)

    • Leave Belorado via the Calle Ramón de Miguel and Calle Hipólito López de Bernal and continue along a local road, which runs parallel to the A-road. You will see a convent to the right and the Hotel Belorado to the left. Cross the road very carefully and after a little while you will cross the Tirón River via a footbridge. Pass a Repsol petrol station and cross a local road leading to San Miguel de Pedroso. Keep going along a track running parallel to the road. Your next destination is Tosantos, renowned for the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de La Peña (hermitage) which is excavated into the rock and clearly visible to your right. Leave the village and take a sharp turn left down a gently sloping terraced trail that leads to Villambistia. Go through this village and continue by track through a series of cereal fields to Espinosa del Camino. Cross the A-road again, where a rest area with a fountain awaits.
    • Cut through the village along Calle Villafranca. Shortly after the pilgrimage hostel, turn left along a terraced trail that gently ascends towards Villafranca. About 2 km outside Villafranca there is a ruined roadside shrine hermitage to the right. Soon you will turn left to Villafranca, moving parallel to the Oca River. Enter the village by A-road (please take care when walking on this road). This village has shops and excellent bakeries with wood-fired ovens. It is a good place to eat and regain your strength before climbing up to the Puerto de Pedraja.
    • Villafranca was an old Episcopal seat, known as Auca. Its original settlers were of French origin, which is where the name originates. Next to the Iglesia de Santiago (18th century), take a right down a steep slope leading to a rural road signalling Ibeas at 25 km. The road becomes a track and you will begin the 6 km ascent to the Puerto through beautiful forests comprising Pyrenean oak trees. To the left there are spectacular views of the Sierra de la Demanda and Monte San Millán, the highest peak in Burgos (2,132 m). Among pines, you reach a crossing signalling Presa de Alba to the left. Continue to the right along the Camino de San Juan and you will soon notice a Franco-ist monument commemorating the fallen in the Spanish Civil War. Carry straight on and cross a stream via a wooden bridge. The track now becomes a forest path among pine trees. There is plenty of clay and on rainy days it is almost impossible to reach the Puerto de Pedraja. It is advisable to exit onto the A-road and continue to the Ermita de Valdefuente (hermitage), where you again take up a track to the right that will take you through pine forests and firebreaks to San Juan de Ortega (6 km). The town wall of San Juan and a sculpture entitled Atalaya (watchtower) are the first things to greet you. The tomb of the saint is inside the church. On 21st March and 21st September each year, a ray of light illuminates the capitals depicting Christmas scenes – a magical sight.
    • You leave San Juan de Ortega by a forest trail signposting Agés and walk along the local road from Agés to Atapuerca. Nearby is the most important Paleolithic site in Europe near Atapuerca, which should not be missed.
    Breakfast | Dinner

    Day 6 - Atapuerca ‐ Burgos (20 km/4-5 hours)

    • Beside Mesón Las Cuevas and to the left of a statue of the Homo antecessor, take the track that climbs up the Alto de Atapuerca (hill). The road is stony and progress is difficult. Holm oaks and Portuguese oaks accompany you to the top of the hill, presided over by a cross, where pilgrims leave stones forming ritual geometric shapes. Go straight down alongside the wire fence.
    • The path now becomes a trail and signs to Burgos appear. In Villalval you will see a church in ruins. You leave via the local road that takes you first to Cardeñuela and then to Orbaneja. This local road crosses the A-1 motorway over Villafría’s aerial bridge. Cross the train tracks by the bridge and arrive in Villafría, where you will meet pilgrims coming from the Basque Country. When you reach the N-1 (split), go left along the road to the centre of Burgos. There are still 10 km to go through industrial estates and unremarkable neighbourhoods before you reach the centre of town.
    • Burgos is one of the most important cities on the Camino; its history is tangible in every single one of its streets and stones. The Arlanzón River cuts through the city, and is lined by beautiful parks and paths for strolling that allow you to get to know the city from a different perspective. Lose yourself in the streets of the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) and sample the local cuisine, either at one of its many restaurants or the numerous excellent bars in the historic centre for eye-catching and tasty tapas. The city is linked to the history of El Cid and the Camino de Santiago. There are many true artistic treasures that reflects its rich history such as the imposing Gothic cathedral, the Arco de Santa María, Monasterio de las Huelgas or Monasterio de Miraflores. These are all must-sees, but the city also offers plenty of other attractions that can be discovered on foot. The cathedral marks the beginning of Rúa da Raiña and Rúa Franco, which are laden with bars and restaurants where you can enjoy all the specialities of Galicia. At the end of the street the beautiful Paseo da Ferradura offers impressive views of the city on one side and the university campus on the other. Another part of the historical centre contains the beautiful marketplace, which is built in neo-Romanesque style. It is impossible to summarise the beauty of this great city in only a few lines. We recommend you allow time to just wander around the streets and enjoy the character of this festive and religious university town for yourself.
    Breakfast | Dinner

    Day 7 - Burgos

    • Your rewarding journey ends after breakfast in Burgos. You may wish to book additional nights' accommodation to further explore this city. You can also book an optional departure transfer to take you to the airport.
    Breakfast
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    What's Included

    • Luggage transfers, detailed route notes and maps.

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Trip at a glance

Trip Code PEGJ1
Start City: Logroño
End City: Burgos

What to know

A reasonably good level of fitness is required to undertake this trip. You will be walking from 3-6 hours per day and the average walking stage is 24 km (14.9 miles) per day (total distance: approximately 119 km).

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