Ruins on the scale of Jerash can be intimidating: too much flitting between reading guidebooks and squinting at ruins, imagining the once magnificent edifices that populated the city. Better sometimes to make sure you appreciate the present as well as the past: a stroll down Jerash’s colonnaded high street is as pleasurable for what it is as for what it was. Ionic columns line either side as you walk past a grand ornamental fountain; the nearby Temple of Artemis loftily looking on. The street paves its way down towards the enormous Oval Plaza. Encircled by columns, this was the ancient focal point of the city and is still a wonderful place to linger, the nearby hippodrome, ancient city walls and the yellow-green hills forming a picturesque backdrop.