Here’s the usual sequence of events in Avignon: compose an ambitious to-do list of the town’s many sights, then head first to the Palais des Papes. Realise this beautiful behemoth of a building has all but exhausted your energy and time, so settle for a lingering bite to eat by the Rhone. Nothing wrong with that itinerary, but it’s worth getting past the city’s papal supremacy, and checking out some of Avignon’s museums. Manageably sized and often housed in 18th century mansion houses, they offer the perfect window into how the city lived, and the famous art the area has inspired. Musee Angladon is one such perfectly preserved treat – a series of graceful rooms display beautiful furniture and paintings by masters such as Cezanne, Manet and Picasso. A subtle treat after the bombast of the palais, and you’ll still have sufficient energy afterwards to dance on the Pont d’Avignon.