High above the French Riviera, a 2km trail leads from Gorbio to Ste Agnes, two medieval hilltop villages. From Gorbio’s tight little knot of medieval streets, you emerge onto a trail leading through olive groves, the local press nearby. The rugged mountains to your north are the Alps’ final hurrah before plunging into the Mediterranean, twinkles to your south. This is the Cote d’Azur’s balcony, the sea, and the tourists, far beneath you. The path climbs to St Agnes, perched eyrie-like above the coast. As the crow flies, it’s a mere four kilometres to the sea from here, but so abrupt are the mountains, the road leading down to Menton goes through 12km of switchbacks before reaching the beach.