Stretching south from Amman, the King’s Highway runs past an area rich in Crusader history. Karak is a town that lies almost entirely within the boundaries of its medieval walls. On a craggy outcrop above the town sits the huge Karak Castle, a seven-levelled monster which rewards brave and curious visitors, happy to roam its vaulted corridors and dark corners. If anything, Shobak Castle, south of the magnificent Dana Reserve, is even more imposing. The land is drier here, harsher, and the castle, lonely and proud atop a sun-blistered hill, is a wonderful sight.