A clattering, freewheeling psychedelic sugar-rush of a place, you haven’t truly experienced big-city bustle until Delhi’s swallowed you. Sprawling and apocalyptically chaotic it may be, but Delhi is also a city of splendid monuments and fine architecture. Connaught Place is the city in microcosm. An ensemble of graceful colonnaded colonial buildings serves as the backdrop to a maelstrom of movement, colour and noise: thunderous trucks and rickety rickshaws, buses, and even cattle and horses all circle the area while nearby ice-cream sellers, shoe-shiners, masseurs and flower-sellers noisily ply their trades. It’s a fervid, feverish scene, a city running permanently on overdrive – and utterly compelling for that. Nearby, the contrasts continue: check out the magnificent India Gate, built in honour of Indians killed fighting for the British in World War One, then dive headlong into Janpath Bazaar. A cornucopia of endlessly varying sights and sounds, where bright flowing saris of gold and rose, threads of all colours, leather goods and jewellery and much, much more are all on sale, their sellers all contending for your attention, and the heady smells of the street stalls perfumes the air. A jump-start for the senses, Delhi and its famous bazaar are the kind of place that leaves you shaking your head in disbelief and your senses saturated.

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