Dawn breaks, and with it comes first sight of the el tatio geyser field. The cold that chills the bones lifts, not only because of the rising Andean sun, but also because of the extraordinary sight now revealed: columns of steam rise all around you, geysers fountaining regularly among the vapour. And if you’re not fully warmed up, take a dip in nearby thermal pools, the earth’s thin crust creating the one of the planet’s highest spas. El Tatio is the third largest geyser field on earth, and the highest. It’s one of the high points of any trip to the region too.