Cute baby elephants charging and tumbling over one another before trotting back in line and under belly at their mothers’ behest is one of many wildlife spectacles best seen in Laikipia Conservation Area in Northern Kenya. Here, among other wildlife treats, is the largest elephant population in Kenya, all focused onthe Ewaso Nyiro, the rich oasis of the Brown River. Camp by its banks on El Karama Ranch and you’ll be amongst 75 species of wild mammals and over 350 species of bird, all vying for your attention. Sparsely populated and with game patterns undisturbed, the ancient lava plain of Laikipia is secluded wildlife safari-ing at its best. The region is also home to the rare Grevy’s zebra, blue-legged Somali ostrich, scimitar horned oryx, gerenuk, eland and a good number of leopard. And of course elephants. Whole drinking, dunking, snorting, calling, wallowing hordes of them. Including little soft-trunk babies trotting along between the legs of the adults, learning of themselves and their habitat for the first time. Astounding stuff.