February’s Festival on the Niger is one of Mali’s great cultural events – an explosion ofstorytelling, remarkable puppet shows, pirogue canoe races, artisanship, and traditional dance. And music – above all else, Mali’s magnificent music. A three-day bonanza of the contemporary and the traditional, the festival is as diverse and exuberant as the country itself. Join some colourfully robed Tuareg musicians in the late afternoon, rolling out a hypnotic tune in the shade of a balanzan tree, before moving on to the main stage, a floating pontoon on the Niger, where Mali’s best musicians play long into the night, keeping alive the country’s great oral storytelling tradition to the enthusiastic, dancing crowd.
Father to America’s blues, grandfather of rock and roll, Mali’s musical renown extends well beyond its borders. This is where many of African music’s biggest stars come from, world music legends like Salif Keita and Ali Farka Toure, and current acts gaining international attention such as ‘the songbird of Wassalou’, Oumou Sangaré, and Bassekou Kouyate.
It’s one thing to listen to a recording, but live is the only way to truly experience Mali’s sounds. The beautiful harp-like kora, and the banjo-style rapid-fire twangs of the n'goni, all accompanied by sweet soaring vocals – whether it’s at one of Bamako’s many clubs or amidst a sea of people on the sands of the desert, the excitement and energy is always infectious.
If you’re in Bamako, be sure to check out the musical instruments at the national museum, then think about stopping by one of the capital’s clubs – live music is the norm at many. The French Cultural Centre also hosts performances. But if you can, get out of the city and into one of the festivals. Music may be centre stage here, but so much more goes on. Punctuate your dancing by seeing some ritual sword fights, film screenings, storytelling and craft markets. The Festival au Desert and the Festival on the Niger are unique, dazzling events of poetry and soul, rhythm and dance.
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