For anyone who has visited Southern Spain’s wonderful Moorish religious sites, Syria’s Great Mosque offers a fascinating mirror-image. A place of worship for different faiths over three millennia, the mosque’s walls offer a history lesson in medieval multiculturalism, its architecture a beautiful religious palimpsest. Look out for the Minaret of Jesus. Tallest of the mosque’s three towers, part Mamluk, part Ottoman in design, and so called because of the belief that this is the point where Jesus will descend to earth on Judgment Day. If you want to understand anything about Damascus, or the Islam world, the Umayyad Mosque is essential.