Peregrinos move through some of the Camino’s loveliest moments around Arzúa, east of Santiago in the deep green folds of Galicia. Gentle trails lead through oak and eucalypti groves and past villages like Boente and Castañeda, long practised in the art of welcoming pilgrims. Arzúa is next, one of those Spanish towns that doesn’t grace guidebook covers – sometimes doesn’t even make it between the covers – but gently charms those who pass through. There aren’t blockbusters sights to tick off a list here - who wants to do that after a day’s walking anyway? Just a relaxed public life, some fine old buildings and an easy welcome (and be sure to try the local cheeses – the area is renowned for them).