Page one of all those ‘things to see before you die’ books, It is a surreal twist that the Giza Pyramids are essentially a suburban feature of Cairo. A short hop from the city centre and you’re in Giza, where a desert plateau rises. Here rests what are arguably the world’s supreme man-made monuments. As recognisable as the sun, yet utterly compelling when seen first hand, the pyramids also fascinate for all the mystery and conspiracies that are attached to them. Impervious to such fleeting chatter, alongside the pyramids stands the guarding presence of the iconic Sphinx.