An island of roman remains, international arts festival and spectacular churches amidst a sea of lush green rolling fields, charming Spoleto packs a weightier punch than places ten times its size. June and July are peak times, with the world-class festival taking over the town, and using the ancient roman theatre for performances to splendid effect. But the town rewards at other times as well – its riddle of little medieval lanes opening out onto leafy piazzas, the local trattorias perfect for trying the local delicacy of black truffles. One essential stop: the cathedral, the apse of which features the great painter Filippo Lippi’s final artwork. And as if that’s not all enough, Spoleto is also the perfect jumping off point for the wild charms of the nearby Valnerina.