Jordan’s capital and economic powerhouse, Amman is as forward-looking and dynamic a city as you’ll find in all of the Middle East. Ruin-hunters can get an easy, full fix locally, with an impressive citadel and a restored, beautiful Roman Theatre. After these have been ticked off the list, it’s time to wander. The King Hussein Mosque is the starting point of choice – a hub of activity, with streets fanning out that all merit exploration. Stock up on pastries and fresh juice at the nearby sugar market, rich with the colours and scents of spices and dates, and wander the downtown’s meandering streets, before doing as the locals do and ending up at Hashemite Square for several casual circuits as the sun sets.