Oft considered one of the most amazing wildlife experiences in the world, stepping from Zodiac to shore at South Georgia’s Salisbury plains amid a vast cacophony of breeding king penguins is a experience you’ll never forget. They waddle the beach amongst baby fur seals right by you: unafraid, unperturbed, even inquisitive. Walk amongst them and up onto the plain and before you behold an overwhelming sight: a colossal hillside gathering, like the world’s largest garden party or a Washington monument war protest, a sea of penguins stretching out into the distance. It is difficult to comprehend the immensity of the rookery; there are so few equivalents when humans have gathered in such profusion. On and on, from shoreline to hilltop, the colourful penguins and their fluff-ball chicks cavort, chatter, moult, mate and meander. It is noisy, overwhelming and real. Not to be missed.