The Everest range at its most dramatic. Deep in the Gokyo Valley, three days trek from Everest Base Camp, lie the Gokyo lakes, three shimmering jewels of differing shades of blue and green. The footpath skirts these lakes, leading you along the shores and serving up inspiring views of the peaks that spring up on all sides: Cho Oyu and Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. Best of all, however, is the view of the lakes from atop Goyko Peak. There they lie, twinkling, jade-green against the surrounding yellowing earth. And alongside them stretches out the mighty Ngozumpa Glacier, Nepal’s largest, a fearsome, ferocious sea of ice cutting its way across the earth.