The Magyar settlement of Eger

Unpromisingly pronounced 'egg-air', fortunately the aroma you'll most likely encounter in this jewel of a town in northeast Hungary is the bouquet of one of its justly renowned wines. Whites are produced, but it's the reds that are the draw here, with the 'Bull's Blood' blend the star of the show. Tastings are a pleasure for the diversity of the cellars as well as the quality of the grape: simple caves consisting of merely a couple of barrels and an uncorked bottle rub shoulders with grand waiters-in-starched-whites affairs. If you're keen on exploring Eger's castle, it might be wise to tackle the hill on which it stands before any wine tasting: the reds can pack a punch.

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