Meknesis a conundrum. Architecturally elegant, manageable and welcoming, the city has an agreeable climate and is within a zoom lens of Volubilis, one of Morocco’s superstar sights. So where is everyone? Perhaps in the rush to nearby Fes many bypass Meknes. More fool them, as a couple of hours spent exploring here is time well spent, not least because of the comparative calm of the medina. Make sure you visit the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail – its tiling and ornate archways are the equal of any in Morocco.