Wildly exotic, impossibly romantic, Ksar Ghilane springs up like a miracle in the middle of this parched land, a few tents and a cluster of palm dates. The desert oasis to beat all others, Ksar Ghilane has been an important outpost for millennia, and long may it continue. A photograph tells you just about everything you need to know. It seems almost a criminal level of indulgence: to bathe in a swimming pool in the heart of the desert, to sleep in deep comfort in such remote reaches of the Sahara. The flaming sunsets and breathtaking canopy of stars stay with you forever.