Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh is now a lively place – a far cry from the Khmer Rouge era when the intelligentsia were bundled off to country fields and their barefoot farmer cousins set to task in the city. It wasn’t long before the capital was deserted, the country mired with tragedy and disarray. From Phnom Penh, tours visit sites that tell horrific tales of the era, from the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek to Tuol Sleng – the former school turned torture chamber. Closer by, and in thankful contrast, there are tours of the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, glorious testament to classic Khmer culture. In the evening you can enjoy a Khmer meal on the riverfront promenade, and discuss pasts recent and ancient over drinks in the colonial ambience of the Foreign Correspondents’ Club.