Think of Athens and you think of the Acropolis. More specifically, it’s the Parthenon that comes to mind, that living icon of the ancient world – a shadow of its former self, missing most of its friezes and the statue of Athena, and still utterly compelling and beautiful. Visitors to Athens are constantly looking up, their eyes constantly drawn to the great monument that crowns so many a streetscape in the city, the views varying with position and light. A visit to Athens without exploring the Acropolis is unthinkable, but for spectacular views of the Parthenon – and the rest of the city – walk up Filopappos Hill, a kilometre southwest. A pleasant, peaceful green space, with unforgettable vistas, the hill is also a walk through history – during World War Two, caves here were used to hide treasures from the Acropolis. Another cave is where the philosopher Socrates is said to have been imprisoned after being condemned to death.