The relentlessly turbulent,battering seas of the Atlantic pound Cape Cross, wind whips across you here, and the Benguela current enriches these cold waters, making it the perfect place for a hungry seal. Or 100,000 of them. Cape Cross is home to the world’s largest colony of breeding Cape Fur Seals. And they are quite a sight: on the squally, briny shores they sit, covering huge areas, the sun beating down overhead, the wind whistling in desert sands. And if the weather didn’t make things challenging enough, the seals of Cape Cross must also guard against predators. Look out for jackals, a near-constant lurking presence around the edges of seal groups, while hyenas stalk the shores at night, prowling among the nurseries for easy prey. A spectacular sight, just remember to breathe through your mouth – despite their regular baths, seal colonies aren’t exactly what you’d call scent-neutral zones.