
The ancient Greeks knew a thing or two about selecting the site for the navel of the earth. Delphi is as bewitching a place as you could hope for as the centre of all life: up high in rugged, sheer cliffs, the juniper and fir slopes of Mount Parnassos rising to the north, the Gulf of Corinth winking in the sun to the south. A tour of the museum shows off the treasures of the site, but the real standout moments take place outside: taking a seat in the stadium, for example, so perfectly preserved that imagining runners rallying around the red earth is no challenge at all; and the theatre, also beautifully intact, surrounded by cypress and olive trees, and keeper of unforgettable views.
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