Swot up on your Iliad then head over to Troy. The ruins of Ephesus may be more impressive, but nothing touches Troy as a place that mingles fact and legend. The ruins are a palimpsest; successive cities were built on this site – Homeric Troy, that of great wars, the myths of Helen and the Trojan horse, is thought to be Troy VI. Teasingly evocative remains sprout up here and there – some city walls, partial remains of the Temple of Athena. Excavations have also revealed the Skaean Gate – and it’s a thrill for history buffs and children, young and old, to be able to stand exactly where Hector and Achilles fought, some 3,000 years ago.