An antique land, humming with life and striking vistas, the Matobo Hills have long been admired. From colonialist Cecil Rhodes – who chose to be buried here – to their UNESCO World Heritage listing, the landscapes and human history here make it one of Zimbabwe’s finest sights. Enormous boulders perch precariously atop great domes of granite, their faces decorated with red and gold lichen. Black eagles wheel above, haunting cliffs in hunt of dassies. The giant marbles and kopjes are home not only to many reptiles – including the deadly black mamba snake – but also to Southern Africa’s finest and largest collection of Bushmen rock art. Below, amidst tussocky grass and acacia trees, elusive black and white rhinoceroses stalk the land. To walk here, on foot safari in search of wildlife, in particular the white rhino, is to do as others have done for millennia, the primeval pleasure matched by the heightened sensation that comes from such immersion in the bush.