Arguably Bosnia's most picturesque town, the cobbled streets and Neretva River make Mostar a very agreeable town to explore, while its cafes and riverside dining ensure that exploration proceeds at a stately pace. As you wander through peaceful gardens and past churches and mosques, the devastating conflict of recent times can seem incredible, lifetimes away. But reminders are still there: gutted houses still stand on the former front line, and the museum explains the tragedy war brought to Mostar's people. The first item on any visitor's itinerary should be a walk along the Old Bridge, gracefully arching over the Neretva. Destroyed in 1993 then rebuilt post-conflict, it links the Muslim and Croat communities, and is as good an expression of the country's pride and progress as any.