Walking is the best way of experiencing the beautiful, UNESCO-listed Dogon country in Mali’s east, a place of rituals and traditions, beautiful buildings in harmony with the surrounding landscape. The spine of the area is the Bandiagara Escarpment, a magical 200km-long plateau that is home to the Dogon people. Here, houses and granaries, some adobe, others made of unmortared stone, perch at the base of sandstone cliffs, narrow pathways busily winding among the buildings, and tracks connecting the villages. Look up, and high in cliff-face above, totally inaccessible, are little holes in the rock, homes for spirits of the long since departed Tellem people who built them. Any walk here serves up unforgettable views – from the plateau down into the Sahel plains, the singular villages that punctuate the trek, and, at night, the great blanket of stars that glitter down on the land. Endlessly enchanting, the Pays Dogon is for many the highlight of West Africa.