A small, low atoll off the north coast of Spitsbergen, Moffen Island is the haul-out home of the Atlantic walrus. They bask and loll on Moffen’s gravel spits and stretches of sand like tusked velveteen boulders of flippers and fat. Here, too, you might see the immense shaggy build of the polar bear or, at the right time of year, colonies of Sabine’s gull. However to see the walruses flubber along the ground to slip into the water and glide toward your boat is the real treat. Their snorting, whiskery faces and inquisitive eyes broach the surface with a grace belying their form and will have you rapt and beaming. A magnificent sight and wildlife photographer’s delight.